Monday, November 25, 2013

Ravello



Ravello is a charming and quiet seaside resort, rich of art and history; it is a terrace overlooking the sea (m. 350), from which you enjoys a unequalled scenary of natural beauties. From its viewpoints the Amalfitan coast shows an enchanting vision. The city is known as the Città della Musica because of the classical music concerts held here. It is located on the ridge projecting from the mountain that divides the Valle del Dragone (Dragon's Valley) and del Regina. Based at 350 meters on the sea level, Ravello overhangs the underlying towns of Minori and Maiori. This enchanted place is among the most beautiful in the whole Amalfi Coast, with an intense and unique landscape. It is renowned for its peacefulness and the deep fascination it emanates from each corner and its image is mostly connected with villas with breathtaking views seen all around the world by pictures. Ravello is a village with a very ancient history. It has been built on a rock high 350 meters from the cliffs of the Coast of Amalfi. From Ravello you can see an exalting view, where subsequent terraces declining to the sea have been transformed by the work of generations of men in green terraces cultivated with lemon trees and dotted with white houses. Ravello is like an open terrace facing the sea, a point from which we can appreciate panoramas of unique natural beauty. From its dizzy heights, the view of the Amalfi Coast is simply breathtaking. The places where you can take the most beautiful view are the gardens of the ancient Villas of Ravello: Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone.
Villa Rufolo takes its name from an ancient family of Ravello, rich and powerful in the times of the Maritime Republic of Amalfi. The villa suffered carelessness and degradation until in 1851 the Scottish Francis Neville Reid bought it and brought it again to the ancient splendor. In 1880 Wagner, who stayed in the Villa for some time, remained astonished by the extraordinary glamour of the place and here he found the inspiration to compose the second act of the "Parsifal". From that time, the Villa continued to attract visitors and artists and personages as Jacqueline Kennedy and Illary Clinton. During the summer performances of classic music and ballets of the highest level take place at night in the garden of the villa. The garden becomes a charming scenery, with the orchestra playing on a stage hanging between the sky and the sea.

Villa Cimbrone lies down on seven hectares of rocky terraces peaking on the sea. It had been brought in 1904 by Lord Grimthorpe, who embellished the Villa with antiquities coming from every place of Italy and made in the garden walks of statues and little temples. The most suggestive walk is called "The Walk of the Infinite", because it ends with a belvedere, where the height above the sea and the view can leave you breathless.

Ravello was a bustling centre of commercial activity. Between the XI and XII centuries many trading routes were active among Ravello, the Middle East and Sicily. The Arab-Sicilian architecture of many of the buildings in Ravello still reminds us of those ancient exchanges. Ravello possesses many building of high artistic merit, most of them constructed by wealthy merchants.
The cathedral dates back to the XII century. Its facade has two smaller entrances, which wing either side of the main doors of the marble portal. The doors are in bronze, a fine craft by Barisano of Trani, and date back to the year 1179. The XIII century bell tower is decorated with many ornamental arches.
The dream-like views, the lush vegetation and the charming atmosphere make Ravello a "must see" for those visiting the Amalfi Coast.

What visit in Ravello

* The Cathedral of St. Pantaleone: it was originally built by bishop Papirio in the later 11th century, but has subsequently undergrone considerable alterations, especially in the 18th century, which have alterde its spirit, though leaving its underlying structure substantially intact. The Cathedral is flanked by a handsome campanile dating to the 14th century, and entered through magnificent bronze doors made by Barisanus of Trani in 1179. The interior is notable for its magnificent Pulpit dating to the 13th century. The Pulpit represents a wonderful fusion of the classic, Byzantine and Saracenic style. Opposite it stands a no less magnificent Ambo. The nave and the transepts are decorated with paintings of some value, while the choir is adorned with a handsome episcopale throne and paschal candelabrum. The Chapel of San Pantaleone houses the reliquaries of the blood of the Saint to whom the Cathedral is dedicated.


* Museo del Duomo: it is situated in the crypt and keeps, among other interesting works, the bust of Sighelgaita Rufolo, one of the most beautiful sculptures of the XIII century, the reliquaries of S. Barbara (XII century) and S. Lorenzo (XV century), the altar marble mosaic relics (1272), tomb slabs (XV century) and an outstanding pluteus with relieves and mosaic.

* Villa Rufolo: this made up of a whole series of buildings and gardens set on the wide terraces overlooking the sea, offering a unique panorama of Amalfi's coastline from Capo d'Orso to Conca dei Marini. The wealthy Rufolo family made its fortune trading in the Middle East. They were not only merchants but also skilful bankers, and they built the villa in the 13th century. The villa ws later owned by the Confalone family, the d'Affitto family and, in 1815, it was bought by the Scotsman, Francis Neville Reed, who commissioned Michele Ruggiero to restore it. Over the centuries, the villa has had many illustrious guest, including kings, queens, popes and personalities from the world of art and culture. THe present entrance is in the Torre Minore, with its small arches and Moorish-inspired decorations. The vestibule takes us into a pleasant shady avenue lined with cypress trees, leading to the Cloister or Moorish Courtyard, which is now almost all in ruins. Looking over the balustrade on the right, we can admire what is left of the Cloister or, rather, what has been saved by restoration. The loggia above the ogival arches is composed of small pairs of columns supporting beautiful arabesques, surmounted by more pairs of terracotta columns below the decorated walls. From here we preceed to the upper garden on the right there is a part of the villa which houses animals and fragments from the ancient cathedral. From the top of the 30 metre high Torre Maggiore on the left, we can enjoy a view over the whole of Ravello. This was once the defende tower, with its narrow stairway and simple interior. On the second floor, there are two double mullioned windows on each side, and three round windows, whilst on the third floor there is a series of double terracotta columns like those in the Torre Minore. Beyond the well and the Sala dei Cavalieri, we reach the belvedere, a spacious terrace overlooking the sea, abounding in trees and exotic plants. Two staircases led down from each side of this balcony to the lower terrace with its brightly-coloured perfumed gardens. "This is the magic garden of Klingsor" exclaimed Richard Wagner in 1880, dazzled by the splendour of the colourful flowers and intoxicated by fantastic vegetation. It was in this harmonious setting that the great German musician wrote the 4th scene of Act II of Parfisal. Each year, a series of Wagner concerts are organized in the gardens, in this fairytale, setting against a backcloth of sea and sky.

* Villa Cimbrone: from Villa Rufolo, we take the winding steps up via S. Francesco leading to the church of San Francesco, which is said to have been founded by St. Francis in 1222, and rebuilt in the 18th century. There are two entrances in the atrium the main entrance leads into the church, which has a single nave with two altars on each side. It was originally Gothic, as we ca see from the ogival transept and apse. The church houses the marble tomb of Beato Bonaventura of Potenza, which was transeferred there from San Giovanni del Toro. The smaller door leads to the square Romanesque cloister with its double and single columns. Continuing our journey along past the quiet old buildings to Santa Chiara and its nunery, we finally reach the flight of steps leading to the garden of Villa Cimbrone. The Villa was built by the Acconciagiacomo family, and later taken over by the Fusco family, the Amici di Atrani and finally by William Beckett (later Lord Grimthorpe). To the left the entrance is the Cloister, whit its double mullioned windows, arches and central well, in imitation of the San Francesco clositer. Despie the presence of contrasting elements, the overall effect is very pleasing and orginal in addition to the works in wrought iron, the wooden statues and stuccoes, there are two fine bas-relief sculputures of nine Norman Warriors and the seven Deadly Sins. The crypt is also on the left as we enter, and is an unusual contemporary construction in Gothic style, which offers a fine view over the southern part of the Amalfi coas. The colonnade is composed of twenty-two pillars in grey stone, each with eight horozontal bands both the vault and the arcades are pointed, in mock Gothic style. Our visit continues to the Castle, with its small mullioned and loop-holes in different styles, and its two tower. In addition to housing a fine collection of works of art, many seminars and conferences have been held there, and it has many famous guests. We now begin a tour of the gardens beyond the Ponte del Roseto, along the avenue with its beds of reses, camelias, hydrangeas and geraniums on one side and luxuriant trees and shrubs on the other, we find various construction and ornamental statues Mercury (copy of the Hermes at rest in the Museo Nazionale in Naples), Bacchus' Temple (with a small avenue lined with cypress trees leading up to it), Eve's Grotto with its statue of Venus by the Roman sculptor Tadolini, and a small temple with six columns and wrought-iron dome. We finally reach the Belvedere, a wide balcony decorated wih marble busts, wich offers a marvellous view over the Gulf of Salerno, Punta Licosa, Punta della Campanella and the coast around Amalfi from Capo d'Orso to Conca dei marini. We can also see Maiori, Minori, Catiglioni (Ravello beach), Atrani, and the various district of Amalfi dotted about the promontory abd dominated by the ancient Torre dello Ziro. Our tour of the gardens end at the Roseto, with its staues, amphoras and fountains, and finally the Tea-Room, a rectangular room with columns arrangedin pairs, and walls decorated with arabesques in imitation of the Cloister of Villa Rufolo. Opposite the Tea-Room are four ancient carved columns, two bronze fawns and a stone shell decorated with sea scenes.

Cumpa Cosimo is a one of a kind restaurant with excellent Italian food. You will meet the owner of the restaurant who is a friendly woman, Netta, who makes sure you are satisfied with the quality of your meal. It is a relaxed atmosphere and some dishes are made family style. There is so much to choose from with genuine southern Italian cooking with top quality ingredients. It is a special place that you will not forget. The most authentic restaurant anywhere. Small, very inviting - burning fireplace was very charming. It was as if your long lost Italian grandmother invited you over. She spoiled us with delicious soup, crusty bread and brought my daughter hand-cut "french fries" seasoned to perfection while she waited for her canneloni. The house white wine went perfectly with my linguine with mushrooms. There are not enough good adjectives to describe the personality, quality and value of this restaurant. ---46 Via Roma, Ravello, Italy

 Da Nino Pizzeria Take Away-

Parco Della Rimembranza 35/37, 84010 Ravello, Italy
 
 
What a gem we found in this little take-away restaurant! The pizzas were the best price in town & so delicious. The perfect place to grab delicious, homemade Italian food for a picnic. We also tried all of the grilled verdure--eggplant, zucchini, broccoli, peppers and potatoes--all generously portioned and well priced. Their eggplant parmigiana was one of the best I've tasted. The people that worked there were incredibly friendly.

Saturday, November 23, 2013

Tenuta Vannulo dairy

The best buffalo mozzarella cheese starts with the best care for animals

A queue forms for rub-downs as jazz piano tinkles out of the speakers: some of the best buffalo mozzarella in the world starts with in-stable VIP treatment.
Ducky, Sweety and Lady lumber towards the sound system, attracted to the smooth Keith Jarrett licks at the exclusive Tenuta Vannulo dairy in southern Italy.
 
"The music helps them produce more milk because the animal feels more relaxed," said Valentina Michelucci, astable hand.
The half-tonne black water buffaloes spend their days lounging on rubber mattresses, munching on organic hay or looking forward to vaporised showers that form a fine cooling mist from overhead pipes.
When they feel the urge, they saunter into a special pen for automatic milking by a unique machine that knows the exact shape of each udder thanks to a code emitted by the electronic collars the buffaloes wear.
Or they can head to large round brushes that twist into action when the animals come into contact with them, providing a soothing back and shoulders massage.
"Animals have to be treated well to produce stress-free milk," Antonio Palmieri, owner of the 200-hectare (500-acre) farm said.
"They can't speak for themselves so it's up to us to understand how they want to be cared for," he said, sitting in a manicured garden next to his three stables, which house 500 buffaloes.
The farm sells around 300 kilogrammes (800 pounds) of mozzarella per day for 13 euros a kilo -- nearly $8 a pound.
 
There's just one catch: If you want it, you have to drive to the farm, 50 kilometres (30 miles) south of Salerno, to buy it, as Palmieri does not bother with distribution -- or marketing, for that matter.
Brisk business
Business is brisk anyway, thanks to the dairy's word-of-mouth fame and international reputation among jet-setting buffalo milk aficionados.
Around 45,000 customers visited the on-site farm shop in August alone.
 
The staple remains mozzarella but Vannulo also make a range of buffalo milk-based products including yoghurt, ice cream and, starting next year, chocolate.
Vannulo's "is widely regarded as the best mozzarella," said Piero Sardo, president of the Foundation for Biodiversity at Slow Food, an Italy-based international gourmet and eco-friendly farming group.
"The well-being of animals is an important issue," said Sardo, a cheese expert, although he admitted that the link between better treatment and tastier milk was scientifically "difficult to prove".
The history of buffalo dairying in Italy has been traced to the 12th century, but it remained a mainly local affair until relatively recently because of the difficulties in refrigerating the milk.
Before the 1980s, most dairies in the region were small producers like Vannulo.
But in recent years, buffalo mozzarella has gone international and is now prized in the best restaurants from Dubai to Moscow to Sydney. The coveted cheese sells for 30 euros a kilo in Russia.

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Best Food to Eat in Campania

Best Food to Eat in Campania
By Lisa Fantino
Italians love to eat but the cuisine of the northern region of Tuscany is quite different from that of the southern region of Campania. Northern dishes are traditionally more meaty and hearty, like a ribollita; while those in the south highlight fish because of their proximity to the sea. Yet, that’s not to say that any less attention is given to incredible pasta dishes and desserts. So here are the Top 5 dishes to try while touring Campania

Sfogliatella – No trip to Naples or Amalfi would be complete without trying one of these delicious pastries for breakfast. The multi layers of light dough are formed into the shape of a seashell and offer the perfect crunch to compliment your morning latte or cappuccino.
AUTHOR’s PREFERENCE – while I have eaten fantastic sfogliatelle in Campania, some of the best I have ever tasted can be found at the coffee stands inside Rome Fiumicino airport.

Farfalle alla Caprese – These little bowtie or butterfly shaped pasta are cooked al dente and tossed with select virgin olive oil, fresh mozzarella, basil, garlic and sun-ripened tomatoes which have the unique flavor of the lava-rich hills of the region. This is served at room temperature but can be served hot so that the cheese just melts over the pasta.



Fried Zucchini Blossoms – This is a seasonal delicacy that always seems to magically appear on the Amalfi Coast no matter the time of year. In Campania, they stuff these tender orange flowers with ricotta and batter and fry them. You will not find these on the so-called “tourist menu” which offer things like



Chicken Parmigiana, Mamma mia!


Stuffed Calamari or Cuttle Fish – stuffings are as varied for this little squiggly fish as the day is long. However, the stuffing is what makes this dish. Breadcrumbs are the base to which various ingredients such as pignoli, raisin, gorgonzola, onions, garlic and seasoning are added. They are then baked and served as an entrée. They are cooked to perfection when the fish just melts in your mouth.


Dolce – The Napoletani enjoy their desserts. One of the most enjoyable pastimes is to grab a café in a piazza, along with a babbá (rum-soaked cake).