General information regarding Ostia Antica's excavations
For additional information regarding the archeological site, you are pleased to contact directly the 'Soprintendenza' and the ticket office, you'll find their contacts at the bottom of this page. But please, make sure to read this page before doing that, you'll probably find the answers to most of your questions.
The best period to visit the excavations is surely the spring, from half March till the end of May. Another good period would be from the end of September to the beggining of November (weather allowing).
Ostia Antica's excavations timetable
Closed every Monday and in the 1st of January, 1st of May and on the 25th of December.
January and February, November and December:
08.30 - 16.00 (public exit within 17.00)
March:
08.30 - 17.00 (public exit within 18.00)
From the Daylight saving time beginning (last Sunday of March) till October:
08.30 - 18.00 (public exit within 19.00)
From the last Sunday of October (end of Daylight saving time) till the 1st of November:
08.30 - 17.00 (public exit within 18.00)
Tickets information--Ticket € 8,00--Reduced ticket € 4,00
How to reach the archaeological site
The address of the excavations is:
Scavi di Ostia - Via dei Romagnoli, 717 - 00119 Ostia Antica - Roma
By car you need to follow the signs to Ostia Antica, the excavations are along the main street (Via dei Romagnoli). You won't have problems finding them.
By metro if you are in the middle of Rome, for example at Termini, you need to take the line B direction Laurentina till Magliana (will take around 7 minutes) and from Magliana take the metro to Lido di Ostia till at Ostia Antica (will take around 20 minutes). As soon you are out of the station you'll see a blue foot bridge in front of you, cross it and keep going straight till you'll reach a fountain, cross the road in front of it and again keep going straight till the gate of the excavations (less then 2 minutes).
Other useful information-- It's possible to reserve a guided tour from Tuesday to Sunday contacting the ticket office. It's possible to have an audio guide in Italian, English and French, ask at the ticket office. It's not allowed the access to the excavations with transportation which can stop at the checked parking (paying) close to the ticket office.
Within the excavations, right beside the Ostiense Museum and the offices, there's a cafe, restaurant and a bookshop.
The Roman port of Ostia is easier to visit than Pompeii (which is four hours south of Rome by train). And, in some ways, it's more interesting. Because Ostia was a working port town, it shows a more complete and gritty look at Roman life than wealthy Pompeii. Wandering around today, you'll see the remains of the docks, warehouses, apartment flats, mansions, shopping arcades, and baths that served a once-thriving port of 60,000 people.
Getting to Ostia
Getting to Ostia Antica from downtown Rome is a snap — it's a 45-minute combination Metro/train ride to Ostia Antica. It'll cost you just one Metro ticket each way. From Rome, take Metro line B to the Piramide stop (which really
is next to a pyramid, and several other interesting sights — it's worth a quick stop). The Piramide Metro stop is also the Roma Porta San Paolo train station, so the train tracks are just a few steps from the Metro tracks — follow signs to
Lido. All trains depart in the direction of Lido, leave every 15 minutes, and stop at Ostia Antica along the way. The lighted schedule at each track will read something like,
"Treno in partenza alle ore 13.25," meaning, "Train departing at 13:25." Look for the train departing next, hop on, ride for about 30 minutes (keep your Metro ticket handy), and get off at the Ostia Antica stop. (If you don't have a ticket to get back, purchase one at the ticket window at the station, or from the nearby snack bar.)
Leaving the train station in Ostia Antica, cross the road via the blue sky-bridge and walk straight down Via della Stazione di Ostia Antica, continuing straight until you reach the parking lot. The entrance is to your left.
History
Located at (and named for) the mouth (ostium) of the Tiber, Ostia was founded about 620 B.C. Its main attraction was the salt gleaned from nearby salt flats, which was a precious preserver of meat in ancient times. Later, as Rome began expanding (around 400 B.C.), Ostia was conquered, and a fort, or castrum, was built here. Ostia — often called Rome's first colony — served as a naval base, protecting Rome from any invasion by river. By A.D. 150, when Rome controlled the Mediterranean, Ostia's importance became commercial rather than military. Rome eventually outgrew the port of Ostia, and a vast new port was dug nearby (where Rome's airport now stands). But Ostia remained a key administrative and warehousing center, busy with the big business of keeping more than a million Romans fed and in sandals. With the fall of Rome, the port was abandoned. Over time, the harbor silted up, and the Tiber retreated to about one mile away. The mud that eventually buried Ostia actually protected it from the ravages of time — and stone-scavenging medieval peasants.
Ostia Antica Tour
Consider your visit a three-part affair:
1. Follow this tour, which leads you straight down Decumanus Maximus (the town's main drag), with a couple of slight detours, finishing at the forum (the main square).
2. Pop into the museum and consider getting a bite to eat at the cafeteria.
3. Explore the back lanes — going on a visual scavenger hunt — as you wander your way back to the entry point.
1. Cemetery (Necropolis): Find the map (30 yards inside the gate) for an orientation. Notice how the core of Ostia is a rectangular Roman military camp with two major roads crossing at the forum. One of four city gates lies ahead, and on your left is the
necropolis (cemetery). Ancient Romans buried their dead outside the city walls. Detour to find family sepulchres — private open-air rooms lined with niches for ash-filled urns. Until the first century A.D., cremation was common. In the second and third centuries A.D., the Romans here buried their dead in marble and terra-cotta sarcophagi in tombs.
2. Porta Romana: Ahead (where the road gets narrow) you enter the ancient city of Ostia through the scant remains of the gate Porta Romana. Just as Rome's Porta Ostiense faced Ostia, Ostia's Porta Romana faced Rome. Just inside to the left (under the big tree), you can see on the gate the bits of the Latin inscription that greeted all who entered. It reads: "The Senate and the people of the colony of Ostia constructed the walls." The "colony" reference is a reminder that Ostia was the first bit of the Roman Empire.
From the gate, Ostia's main street (named Decumanus Maximus) leads straight to the Forum, where this walk ends. Note that this road was elevated above some buildings' foundations. Over the centuries, Ostia's ground-level rose. You can actually identify buildings from the Republic (centuries before Christ) and the empire (centuries after Christ) by their level. Anything you walk down into is from the earlier period.
3. Republican Warehouses (Magazzini Repubblicani): The first century B.C. was busy with activities relating to the river port. Walking along the main street you pass vast warehouses on the right. The goods of the port, such as grain from Sicily, Egypt, and all of North Africa, were processed and stored in warehouses here before being consumed by Rome.
4. Baths of Neptune (Terme di Nettuno): At the little well in the road, you'll see a viewpoint (with railings, above on right). Climb up for a view of the Baths of Neptune, including a fine mosaic with Neptune riding four horses through the sea. Apart from the cupid riding the dolphin, the sea looks pretty frightening — which it was. The large square to the left of the mosaic would have been busy with people wrestling, stretching, doing jumping jacks, and getting rubdowns. The niches that ring the square housed small businesses.
Climb back down, turn right, and immediately take another right. About seven yards in, on your right as you enter a grassy square, you'll see mosaics of ancient Roman boxers
(mosaico degli atleti). Continue around the square until you reach an exit directly opposite the entrance. Follow the path to your left (paralleling the main street) as it crosses a typical street lined with apartments
(insulae), to get to the Square of the Guilds.
5. Square of the Guilds (Piazzale delle Corporazioni): This grand square evolved from a simple place — where businessmen would stroll and powwow together — to become a monumental square lined with more than 60 offices of ship-owners and traders. This was the bustling center of Rome's import / export industry. Along the sidewalk, second-century A.D. mosaics advertise the services offered by the various shops. Walking counterclockwise, circle the square to "read" the mosaics that advertised in Latin and in a sign language for illiterate or non-Latin-reading sailors. The most common symbol — the lighthouse — was the sign of the port of Ostia. Grain containers are reminders that grain was the major import of Ostia. The elephant marking the office of the Sabratans (a place in present-day Libya) symbolized the sale of ivory or perhaps of exotic animals (great for parties and private spectacles). One shipper advertised that he dealt with Narbon (Narbonne in present-day France).
In the far corner you'll see a mosaic showing porters loading containers from a sea-going ship to a river-going ship and the three-mouthed delta of a river (probably the Nile). Statues of notable local guild-members and business leaders decorated the courtyard. The temple in the center was likely related to Ceres, the goddess of harvest and abundance (prosperity from good business). As you leave, notice the small white altar on the right. This would have been used to sacrifice animals — such as the rams carved into the corners — to ask for favor from the gods. The entrails would be read to divine the future, and to determine whether the gods were for or against a particular business venture. Ahead of you, in the direction of the Decumanus Maximus, is the theater.
6. Theater (Teatro): Up to 4,000 residents could gather here for entertainment. The three rows of marble steps near the orchestra were for big shots. While this theater seems big, it was twice as high in ancient times. (The upper two-thirds of what you see today is reconstructed.) In its day, a wall rose behind the stage, enclosing the theater. Even today, this place — one of the oldest brick theaters anywhere — is used for concerts. Climb to the top of the theater for a fine view.
7. Mill (Molino): The next intersection is Via dei Molini, which marks the wall of the original military castrum (rectangular camp). Before continuing into that oldest part of Ostia, turn right down Via dei Molini and (after nearly 2 blocks), turn left into the mill building
(panificio), which dates from A.D. 120. Before you are several lava millstones that were used to grind grain. Study the workings: A bowl-like lower structure carefully cupped a moving upper section. Grain would be sprinkled in from a sack hanging from the ceiling. Mules or workers would power the grinding by walking in circles, pushing inserted wood poles. Powdery flour (with not much grit) would eventually tumble out of the bottom of the mill, ready to made into bread. A nearby room contains two ovens. Now, backtrack down Via dei Molini and take the first right onto Via Casa di Diana.
8. Via Casa di Diana: There are three places of interest along this street: the House of Diana, a tavern, and stairs leading to the second floor of an apartment flat for a commanding view.
The
House of Diana is a great example of an
insula (a multistoried tenement complex where the lower middle-class lived). The House of Diana originally had three or four floors (reaching the 66-foot maximum height allowed by Ostia's building codes).
Across the street, and down another 30 yards, is an inn called the
Insula of the Thermopolium. Belly up to this tavern's bar. You'll see display shelves for food and drinks for sale, a small sink, and scant remains of wall paintings.
Across the street, stairs lead to the top floor of the
Insula of the Paintings. Climb these for a good view and a chance to imagine life as an apartment dweller in ancient Rome. Now, walk on toward the high red brick temple that marks Ostia's Forum.
9. Forum: Whenever possible, Rome imposed a grid road plan on its conquered cities. After Rome conquered Ostia in about 400 B.C., it built a military camp, or
castrum — a rectangular fort with east, west, north, and south gates and two main roads converging on the forum. Throughout the empire, Romans found comfort in this familiar city plan.
Ostia's main square became a monumental Forum in Imperial period. And dominating this square, like most Roman towns, was the
grand temple (from A.D. 120). The marble veneer was scavenged in the Middle Ages, leaving only the core brickwork. Note the reinforcement arches in the brick. The temple, called the Capitolium (after the original atop Capitol Hill in Rome), was dedicated to the pagan trinity of Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva. A forum dominated by a Capitolium temple was a standard feature of colonies throughout the empire. The purpose: to transport the Roman cult of Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva to the newly conquered population.
Opposite the Capitolium, and distinguished by its sawed-off column, is the
Temple of Roma and Augustus. Its position is powerfully symbolic. The power of the emperor stands equal, facing the power of the Capitolium Triad.
At the
basilica, dating from about A.D. 100, legal activities and commercial business took place (with your back to the forum, it's the building across the street and to your right). Its central nave and two side aisles lead to the "high altar" where the judge sat.
Behind the Capitolium temple — and a little to the right — the pink, modern building houses the fine little
Ostia Museum. Behind that is a shop and a modern cafeteria (with a tiny Tiber view). And Decumanus Maximus continues through the Forum into a vast urban expanse, great for simply wandering (see Archaeological Scavenger Hunt below), but first make one more stop...
10. Forum Baths (Terme del Foro): Walk to the front left corner of the Temple of Roma and Augustus. As you're facing it, look left for a street marked by a grand arch. This leads to Ostia's best and largest baths (entrance on right). As you wander around this huge complex, try to imagine it peopled, steaming, and busy. Roman engineers were experts at radiant heat. A huge furnace heated both the water and air that flowed through pipes under the floors and in the walls. Notice the fine marble steps — great for lounging — that led to the pools. People used olive oil rather than soap to wash, so the water needed to be periodically skimmed by servants. The octagonal room (for sunbathing) leads to the elliptical
laconicum (sweating room), two
tepidaria (where Romans were rubbed down by masseuses), and the once-steamy
caldarium with three pools.
From the baths you can look across the street to the 20-hole
latrine (across from the entry to the baths). You can still see the pivot hole in the floor that once supported its revolving door. The cutout below the seat was to accommodate the washable sponge on a stick used rather than toilet paper. Rushing water (brought in by aqueduct) below each seat did the flushing.
11. Ostia Museum: This small museum offers a delightful look at some of Ostia's finest statuary. Without worrying too much about exactly what is what, just wander and imagine these fine statues — tangled wrestlers, kissing cupids, playful gods — adorning the courtyards of wealthy Ostia families. Most of the statues are second- and third-century A.D. Roman pieces inspired by rare and famous Greek originals. The portrait busts are of real people — the kind you'd sit next to in the baths (or toilets).
A forte of Roman sculptors was realistic busts. Roman religion revered the man of the house (and his father and grandfather). A statue of daddy and grandpa was common in the corner of any proper house. Also, with the emperor considered a god, you'd find his bust in classrooms, at the post office, and so on.
The sarcophagi (marble coffins) generally show mythological scenes of Dionysus, the Greek god who relates to the afterlife and immortality. A few humble frescos give a feeling for how living quarters may have been "wallpapered."
Perhaps the most interesting room (to the left as you enter) features statuary from religions of foreign lands. Being a port town, Ostia accommodated people (and their worship needs) from all over the known world. The large statue of a man sacrificing a bull is a Mithraic altarpiece.
The cafeteria and shop are in a modern building just behind the museum.
12. Archeological Scavenger Hunt: As you return to the entry gate, get off the main drag and explore Ostia's back streets. Wandering beyond the Forum and then taking the back lanes as you return to the entry, see if you can find:
- Tarp- and sand-protected mosaic flooring.
- White cornerstones put into buildings to fend off wild carts and reflect corners in the dark.
- Fast-food fish joint (on Decumanus Maximus, just beyond the forum).
- Hidden bits of fresco (clue: under hot tin roofs).
- Republican buildings and buildings dating from the empire.
- Stucco roughed up for fresco work (before applying the wet plaster of a fresco, the surface needs to be systematically gouged so the plaster can grip the wall).
- Mill stones for grinding grain (Ostia's big industry).
- Floor patterns made colorful with sliced columns.
- A domus (single-family dwellings always faced a fancy central open-air courtyard).
By Rick Steves and Gene Openshaw
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