Monday, September 23, 2013

The Royal Palace at Caserta

In 1750 Charles of Bourbon (1716-1788) decided to build the Royal Palace as  ideal  center  of  new Kingdom of Naples, by that time autonomus and released from spanish aegis. The choice of the place where it would rise the new administrative capital of the kingdom  fell on the lowlend of Terra di Lavoro, in the place dominated by the sixteenth century Acquaviva palace. The project for the imposing building, destined to compete with others European royal resideneces, was given, after various events, to architect Luigi Vanvitelli (1700-1773), son of the most important landscape painter, Gasper Van Wittel, formerly active in Rome under Benedetto XIV in dom of S.Pietro restoration.alt

 The Royal Palace building began with the laying of the foundation stone in 20 jenuary of 1752 and it proceeded briskly until 1759 year in which, dead the King of Spain, left the kingdom of  Naples  to reach Madrid. After Carlo's departure the new Palace construction works, as at time was colled the Royal Palace, suffered a considerable slowdown, so at the death of Luigi Vanvitelli in 1773, they were far from being completed. Carlo Vanvitelli, and afterwards other architects, trained at the Vanvitelli school, carried out in the next century this great royal residence.
The Royal Palace of Caserta has a rectangular  plan articulated  on building overlooking four large courtyards and it covers an area of approximately  47.000 square meters for a height of 5 floors equal to 36 meters. An imposing portico (optical telescope) is the ideal connection between the park and the waterfall, located scenically at the height of the vanishing point thus created.
The staircase of honor, eighteenth-century invention of the art scene connects the lower and the upper hallway, from which leads  to the royal apartments. The rooms used by the royal family were made several times during a whole century, in a style that reflects the so called   « internal units»  feature of architectural design and decorative of eighteenth-century and partly according to nineteenth-century taste for composite furnishing  and the tiny objects.
On the upper vestibule, in front of the compartment of the main staircase, opens the Palatine Chapel, designed by Vanvitelli even in decorations, it's certainly the room more than any other  shows a clear analogy with the model of  Versailles. The Court theatre, located on the western  side of the palace, is a wonderful examble of  eighteenth-century theater architecture.
The traditional visit to the Royal Palace of Caserta has been enriched by recent inedited routes that offer to the visitors the chance to choose how, the times and the issues more in keeping with their interests  and cultural curiosities.
Route A includes a visit to the historic apartment, and, immediately after the Nativity, is  completed with a visit to the art gallery, wich is spread over to wings completely reorganized and the Palatine Chapel.
Route B runs through the «picture gallery, new paintings from deposits», held on the ground floor of the second courtyard.
Route C provides the opportunity to visit, on reservation, the elliptical vault cover  of the staircase of honor, and the spaces  of corresponding attics. The visitors can access it directly from the upper vestibule, through the stairway located to the right of the historic apartment entrance.
The Royal Park is part of the project preseanted by the architect Luigi Vanvitelli to sovereign, it is inspired by the gardens of the great european residences of the time and it merging the tradition of the italian renaissance garden with solutions introduced by André Le Notre in Versailles. The work with the delimitation of the area and planting of first plants, began in 1753, together the ones for the construction of the aqueduct Carolino whose waters  from the slopesof mount Taburno would feed the fountains of the royal gardens.The formal garden, as it is this day, it is only a part of the realization planned by Luigi Vanvitelli, in fact his death in 1773 the acqueduct was finished but no fountain was made still. The work was completed by his son Carlo (1740-1821), who, while simplifying his father design, was a true filmmaker, retaining the compositional rhythm of the alternation of fountains, ponds, meadows, and waterfalls.
For those who leave the palace the gardens present themselves divided in two parts: The first one consists of a large parterre  separated by a central avenue leading up to the fountain Margherita, flanked by groves of oak and hornbeam, arranged symmetrically to form a semicircular green "theatrical" scene.
To the left of building, in the so-called "Old Wood", whose name recalls the existence of a previous renaissance garden, there is the Castelluccia a construction that simulates a miniature castle, from which the young Ferdinando IV practiced in mock ground battles. In Peschiera grande an artificicial lake elliptical in shape with a small island in the middle, were it fought naval battales with a flotillia constructed just for this purpose.
The secon part of the park, made entirely by Carlo Vanvitelli, starts from the fountain Margherita, from which unfolds the famous waterways, on which from the south to the north lies  the fountain of "Delfini", so-called because the water comes out from the mouths of three large marine monsters carved in the stone and the fountain of "Eolo", formed by a large exedra in which there are numerous caves that simulate the home of the winds, represented by statues of "zephire". The main axis is structured in seven sloping tanks forming as many waterfalls concluded with the fountain of Cerce that represents the fecundity of Sicily, with the statues of the goddes and the two rivers of the island. The last fountain is one in which is represented the story of Venus and Adonis.
Finally, in the basin, called Diana's Bath, below the waterfall of mount Briano, two major marmoreal blocks depicting Actaeon when, transformed into a deer, is going to be devoured by his own dogs, and Diana surrounded by nymphs, while leaves the waters. An artificial grotto, built with large blocks of tufa, the so-called Torrione, stands on the top of the waterfall, where you can enjoy the view of a unique landscape.
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On the side of the fountain of Diana, from 1785, at the behest of Maria Carolina, wife of Ferdinand IV, Carlo Vanvitelli and the english gardener John Andrew Graefer realized the first Italian garden landscape.
On a surface of 24 hectares were carried out, in a short time, important works to create hills, meadows, lakes and canals fed by the waters of Carolino and enriched by new plants from all over the known world. Following the manner that from England was spreading across Europe, were built many Fabriques useful to stop and the real fun but also orangeries and greenhouses for the admission of botanical specimens and study and reproduction of plants.
Of all the environment more beautiful and full of picturesque views is the Bath of Venus, so called for the presence of a statue in Carrara marble, the work of Tommaso Solari, depicting the goddess in the act of leaving the water of a small lake, surrounded by a forest of laurels, oaks and monumental specimens of Taxus baccata. Within a rocky mantle, where there was an ancient pozzolana quarry, in the thick vegetation, lies the Criptoportico, a semicircular cave with a vault covered by lacunar and embellished with columns, pilasters and classical statues from the Farnese Collection in the that suggest the ruins of a portico of an ancient temple. Striking are the fake ruins of a Doric Temple and the Temple circular, which rises unexpectedly in the woods called "Labyrinth", work of Carlo Vanvitelli. Not far from the old greenhouses is the English Mansion , edificatata between 1790 and 1794 and intended to house the gardener Graefer. Not to be forgotten the Aperia with a semicircular plant, originally used by Vanvitelli as a water tank and later for beekeeping, and in 1826 it became a greenhouse, recently used as open-air theater.
Born as a walk through the botanical rarities the "english" garden became a veritable botanical garden where they were visible exceptional examples of Cinnamomum camphora, Taxus baccata, Cedrus libani, what is passed is the first plant Camellia Camellia japonica arrived in Europe and intended for the garden by Maria Carolina.
During the nineteenth century under the leadership of distinguished botanists Gussone and Terracciano, who strengthened activity study and the reproduction of botanical specimens, the garden was called the Royal Botanical Gardens of Caserta.
And it is the coexistence and fusion of natural scenes of great beauty, sculpture groups combined with exotic trees of great scientific interest, functional architectures and environments for the preservation and reproduction of plants, which carries the meaning and charm of the garden complex, still perceptible by anyone who frequent the winding paths or dwell in contemplation of a stream or a fake ruin.

In size and splendor, it rivals the Palace of Versailles, and has been used as a set for Hollywood blockbusters such as Star Wars, Mission: Impossible, and Angels & Demons.
But the Royal Palace of Caserta is in such a bad state, and suffers from such lax security, that local officials have called for the Italian army to be sent in to protect it.
The sprawling palace, built to the same scale as its more famous cousin at Versailles and listed as a World Heritage site by UNESCO, should be one of Italy’s premier tourist attractions.
Instead, it is losing visitors at an alarming rate, its statues and walls are covered in mildew, and cars regularly race up and down avenues that should be the preserve of pedestrians, cyclists, and families pushing strollers.
The sense of neglect was underlined over Easter when a group of teenagers was photographed stripped down to their shorts and splashing in a pool at the top of a huge ornamental waterfall that dominates the palace’s landscaped gardens.
The grounds of the palace were supposed to be closed to the public, but the youths – described as “a barbarian horde” by one Italian newspaper – managed to sneak in nonetheless and take advantage of spring sunshine to take a dip in the cascade.
The palace and estate now has such a security problem that troops should be called in to guard it, the mayor of the local town of Caserta said Monday. Pio Del Guadio wrote to Italy’s ministers for defense and home affairs calling for “urgent intervention” by the army.
The controversial proposal was rejected as overly alarmist by Giovanni Puglisi, the president of Italy’s commission for UNESCO sites. He said that “at most” the lax security around the palace required a beefed up police presence, rather than bringing in troops.
He also called for children in Italian schools to be taught “civic education” and a greater respect for the country’s heritage.
The sorry state of the palace is a potent emblem of the dysfunction that afflicts modern Italy and the country’s apparent inability to capitalize on its extraordinary cultural heritage, from Roman remains such as the Colosseum and Pompeii to Baroque churches and Renaissance monuments.
“The neglect of the Royal Palace of Caserta is the umpteenth sign of the growing disinterest of this country towards one of its main assets – its culture,” says Armando Cirillo, a spokesman on tourism for Italy’s biggest political bloc, the Democratic Party. “We need immediate intervention to safeguard its security and its value.”
The palace was built in the 18th century by the Bourbon rulers of what was then the Kingdom of Naples, who consciously set out to outdo the Palace of Versailles.
Now surrounded by the hard-scrabble, Mafia-ridden town of Caserta, north of Naples, it is one of the largest palaces in Europe, boasting more than 1,200 rooms.
The palace doubled for the Vatican in Angels & Demons, the film adaptation of one of Dan Brown’s best-selling thrillers. It also appeared in Mission: Impossible III, as well as two of the more recent Star Wars movies – standing in for the palace of Queen Amidala, played by Natalie Portman, on the planet Naboo.
Despite its cinematic appeal, the number of visitors has declined by around 50,000 a year for the last decade, with the palace now attracting an average of just 1,500 tourists per day.
Last month Lorenzo Ornaghi, the minister for culture, said the palace needed an injection of funds similar to that given to Pompeii, the ancient Roman city that was buried by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius, south of Naples.
There was another blow to the sprawling royal palace a few days ago when thieves managed to access the roof and steal copper, estimated to be worth $100,000, from a lightning conductor.
The theft took place right under the noses of Carabinieri paramilitary police and the Italian Air Force, both of which have offices in the building. Heritage officials said they had no idea how the thieves managed to steal the valuable metal from such a high-profile location.
Alarm over the deteriorating state of the palace was last raised in October when chunks of masonry fell from a cornice, narrowly missing a group of tourists.

Admire the lavish Caserta Palace complex, Versailles of the Campania region. It not only housed the Bourbon kings of Naples, but also accommodated a university, the ministries, a public library, the magistracy, a large theater, a seminary, and a cathedral church. Breathtaking architecture, splendid vistas, beautiful parks and gardens – visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site near Naples!
Your ticket gives you access to the historic apartments, the exhibition Terrae Motus, and to the Park and English Garden.Reservations must be made with a minimum of 1-day notice.


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Opening Hours:

Apartments: 8:30am - 7:00pm; last admission: 6:30pm

Exhibition: 9:00am – 6:00pm (guided visit with museum's assistants each hour)
Park and Garden:
January, February, November, and December: 8:30am – 2:30pm
March: 8:30am – 4:00pm
April: 8:30am – 5:00pm
May and September: 8:30am – 5:30pm
June, July, and August: 8:30am – 6:00pm
October: 8:30am – 4:30pm

The English Garden closes one hour before the last admission to the Park.
The Caserta Palace complex is closed on Tuesdays

Cumae - Hell on Earth

Hell on Earth
The Bay of Naples was seen as Hell on Earth, an entrance into the Underworld, but also the site of one of the most famous oracles: that of Cumae, a mystery that is still surrendering – slowly – some of its mysteries. Philip Coppens

The Bay of Naples and Vesuvius were originally not seen as an idyllic holiday destination, though the tradition started at the time of the Roman emperors who raised splendid villas, making the area famous for its thermal stations. Bur originally, this area was famous for its volcanic landscape, known as the Phlegr(a)ean Fields. According to mythology, it was here that Hercules and the gods defeated the Titans who were eager to seize Olympus. The Vulcano Solfatara was seen as the mythical entrance to the Ancient Romans’ Hell. For the Greeks, it was the dwelling place of Ephestus, the god of fire. Actually, it is a dormant volcanic crater that has been emitting sulphuric vapours for about the last 4,000 years. In medieval times, the Solfatara was among the most famous thermal spas of the Phlegrean Fields, known for cures employing mud, sulphuric waters and steam baths. Two stufe, one known as Purgatory and the other as Hell, were used as natural saunas for the inhalation of these sulphurous vapours, which were considered to be specifically beneficial for respiratory illnesses.
Today, the Solfatara is a well managed tourist attraction with a camping ground and cafeteria. But two or three millennia ago, it was a savage place, rightfully seen as Hell on Earth, with the fumes of the Underworld drifting over this and the surrounding landscape. The Underworld, of course, had its attractions; it was an important part of mythology and seen as the route that was required to be taken for those trying to gain access to Heaven. The main centre – and the oldest – was established at Cumae, right next to the Phlegrean Fields, but also on the coastline, and thus on the borders of the fields and easily reachable by boat. Though it is located in Italy, in at least 730 BC, it was a Greek, Euboean colony. The Greeks had recently washed up on Ischia and people from Euboea set up a trading station near what is now Lake Ameno, though they soon left for Cumae on the mainland. The Greeks soon made Cumae the area’s most powerful city, then spread down the coast, founding Parthenope in ca. 680 BC, Dikaiarchia (Pozzuoli) in ca. 530 BC and Neapolis – Naples, the “New Town” – in 470 BC. As the Etruscans grew in power, battles where fought at Cumae in 524 and 474 BC, both of which were won by the Greeks. Cumae eventually fell in 421 BC and became “Italian”.
Cumae is a conical hill that sits right on the edge of the sea and is in shape very similar to Berwick Law in Scotland, another conical hill that sits along the coastline in an otherwise flat landscape – though the “acropolis of Cumae” sits right on the coastline. It is notorious as it is the scene from Book 6 of Virgil’s Aeneid, in which Aeneas comes to Cumae to meet with the Sibyl. This prophetess (of Apollo) was renowned for entering a trance, during which she was able to predict the future. In Virgil’s account, she predicted the glorious future of Rome and showed Aeneas how his Trojan trials and tribulations were but the necessary preparation for a man who would be seen as the first herald of Rome’s future splendour.
The story of the Sibyl of Cumae was well-known. Dante wrote about it and Michelangelo painted her on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. Virgil said that Cumae had been the site where Daedalus had come to when fleeing from the kingdom of Minos. “He dared to trust his life to the sky, floating off on swiftly driving wings towards the cold stars of the north, the Greater and Lesser Bears, by a route no man had ever gone before, until at last he was hovering lightly in the air above the citadel of Chalcidian Cumae. Here he first returned to earth, dedicating to Phoebus Apollo the wings that had oared him through the sky, and founding a huge temple. On its doors were depicted the death of Androgeos, son of Minos, and then the Athenians, the descendants of Cecrops, ordered to pay a cruel penalty and yield up each year the living bodies of seven of their sons.”
In ancient times, Virgil was not the only one to write about the Sibyl and the site; this is what Strabo had to say about it: “Near Kume [Cumae] is Cape Misenom, and between them is Lake Akherousia, a kind of shoal-water estuary of the sea … also Gulf Aornos [Avernus] … The pole prior to my time were wont to make Aornos the setting of the fabulous story of the Homeric Nykeia [Odysseus' journey to the Underworld]; and, what is more, writers tell us that there actually was an Oracle of the Dead [of the gods Hades and Persephone] here and that Odysseus visited it … […] People used to suppose that this too was a Ploutonion [of Hades] place and that the Kimmerioi [Cimmericans] had actually been there. At any rate, only those who had sacrificed beforehand and propitiated the Daimones Katakhthonioi [Underworld Gods] could sail into Aornos, and priests who held the locality on lease were there to give directions in all such matters; and there is a fountain of potable water at this place, on the sea, but people used to abstain from it because they regarded it as the water of the Styx [the River of the Dead]; and the Oracle, too, is situated somewhere near it; and further, the hot springs near by and Lake Akherousia betokened the River Pyriphlegethon [the fiery river of Hades]. Again Ephoros, in the passage where he claims the locality in question for the Kimmerioi, says: ‘They live in underground houses, which they call ‘argillai’, and it is through tunnels that they visit one another, back and forth, and also admit strangers to the oracle, which is situated far beneath the earth; and they live on what they get from mining, and from those who consult the Oracle, and from the king of the country, who has appointed to them fixed allowances; and those who live about the oracle have an ancestral custom, that no one should see the sun, but should go outside the caverns only during the night; and it is for this reason that the poet speaks of them as follows: ‘And never does the shining sun look upon them’; but later the Kimmerioi were destroyed by a certain king, because the response of the Oracle did not turn out in his favour; the seat of the Oracle, however, still endures, although it has been removed to another place. Such, then, are the stories the people before my time used to tell [about Avernus].”
But for many years, the story of Virgil and the Sibyl of Cumae were seen as nothing but a legend. Her famous oracular site seemed not to exist. Excavations had discovered two important temples on the site. On top of the conical hill sits the Temple of Jupiter, the God of the Skies – Master and Commander of the pantheon and the Roman equivalent of Zeus. A sacred road descends from his sanctuary towards approximately half-way down the hill, where there is a plateau on its inland-facing side. Here was a Temple of Apollo, the god of prophecy, the god who was said to have driven the Sibyl mad, the god who possessed her, so that she could predict the future. Was it here that the Sibyl sat, perhaps in an underground cavity, like her counterpart – the Pythia – at Delphi? There was no physical evidence of such a cavity and hence no confirmation of Virgil’s story.
The foot of the acropolis is, today, a very impressive entrance to the site; the area is known as the Crypta Romana, as most of the work here was carried out by the Romans. Though most of it is off-limits to the visitors, you can see how the Romans dug extensive chambers and tunnels into the mountain flank. Further inland is the so-called Grotta di Cocceio (closed to the public), near the Arco Felice (built in 95 BC and an arch where some visitors to the site, depending from which direction they approach, may have driven through), built by Agrippa, which passes under Monte Grillo, en route to Lake Averno, several kilometres away. It shows the extensity of the underground complex. But nothing that compared to Virgil’s description of the tunnel with a thousand “mouths” – the Antrum of the Sibyl – was found. That changed in 1932, when a local pizza oven was found to mask the opening to the antrum! Almost overnight, Virgil was no longer seen as an inventor of tall tales, but as a man who had accurately written down as to what could be seen at Cumae: the Antrum of the Sibyl.
It is quite amazing that no-one discovered this Antrum before. Though quarried from the rock, it is neither deep nor difficult to find. It is a rather horizontal tunnel that starts to the left (when entering) from the Crypta Romana, over a distance of ca. 100 metres, but only four or five metres deep into the rock – in fact, today, a visitor sees the numerous exists and windows from the side chambers of the tunnel and can enter and leave the tunnel almost at leisure. With approximately five entrances clearly visible, it is remarkable that it took until 1932 before the site was discovered. But then the magic spell of the pizza over Naples’ citizens does indeed seem to cause short-sightedness.
The Antrum of the Sibyl is a long, straight tunnel, with side chambers. At the end, there is a cave on the left hand side, where the Sibyl made her prophecies. It was apparently here that Apollo took possession of her, resulting in her ranting and raving, but equally able to see the future. Virgil worded it as such: “the Sibyl sang her fearful riddling prophecies, her voice booming in the cave as she wrapped the truth in darkness, while Apollo shook the reins upon her in her frenzy and dug the spurs into her flanks. The madness passed.”
The Sibyl of Cumae had a complex relationship by Apollo, by whom she had been charmed. She asked to live for as long as there were grains of sand in a heap in front of her. It turned out that this meant she would live for one thousand years. After some centuries, she was asked how her life was developing. She said that it was miserable, for she had forgotten to ask for eternal youth too.
Apart from Virgil’s visit, to which we will return shortly, there was a famous “incident” when the Sibyl offered to sell to Rome’s king Tarquinius Superbus (535-510 BC) nine books of Sibylline Prophecy. He refused, as both she and the god Apollo were hardly known to him. Hence, she threw three of the books in the fire, but the king still refused to buy. Then she destroyed another, with the same result. The final three were bought (apparently for the prize she demanded for all nine works) and they were afterwards stored on the Capitoline Hill in Rome, to be consulted in hours of need.
Temple of Apollo
Cumae represents all three levels of the world: heaven, earth and the underworld. Today, we approach Cumae from the ticket office and see the “Antrum of the Sibyl” on our left. Then we climb, on top of the antrum, towards the “acropolis” and onwards to Temple of Apollo. Like Delphi, the Temple of Apollo and the Rock of the Sibyl are two distinct entities. From the Temple of Apollo, the Sacred Way climbs quite steeply up the hill, which is crowned by the Temple of Jupiter. Here we have the three-fold division of the Earth: Jupiter for the Heavens; Apollo for our Earth, and the Antrum representing the Underworld. The latter was held sacred to the King and Queen of the Underworld: Hades and Persephone. The Temple of Jupiter is a relatively recent addition, dating from the 3rd century BC. But it may have replaced an earlier sanctuary, or the threefold representation may only date from that period.
So, in 1932, Virgil and co. were vindicated. But Virgil’s account also spoke of another location, nearby. This was a cave, out of which fumes rose. Virgil wrote: “There was a huge, deep cave with jagged and pebbles underfoot and a gaping mouth guarded by dark woods and the black waters of the lake. No bird could wing its flight over this cave and live, so deadly was the breath that streamed out of the black throat and up into the vault of heaven. Hence the Greek name, ‘Aornos’, ‘the place without birds’.”
It was here that Virgil was about to enter the Underworld, guided by the Sibyl, in an attempt to meet his dead father. The Sibyl warned him that “it is easy to go down to the underworld. The door of black Dis stands open night and day. But to retrace your steps and escape to the upper air, that is the task, that is the labour.”
Descending into the Underworld, he sees his pilot Palinarus, who was believed to be drowned during the crossing to Cumae, but is found to have made it to shore, only to be killed in a fight. He also sees his old lover Dido, as well as Trojans and Greeks who died during the siege of Troy. Aeneas faces his memories, his subconscious, which in ancient cultures was often seen as the female part of the brain, linked with the Mother Goddess and the dark underworld – hence the comparison of a cave’s entrance with the female vulva. It is therefore “logical” (the male, conscious part of the brain) that he was guided by the Sybil down “memory lane”.
Virgil gives a detailed account of the twists and turns that Aeneas and the Sibyl make; the various crossings, the offerings they have to make to appease the gods, before they exit through the Gate of Ivory. The Underworld had two exists, the Gate of Horns and the Gate of Ivory, with the latter being considered as the “false entrance”, the exit of “false dreams”. As such, the story bears several similarities with a 15th century “novel”, the Song of Poliphili, in which a man equally goes in search of his dead lover, only to find out at the end that it has been “but” a dream – Virgil too only explains at the very end of Book 6 that it has been but a dream.
Both Virgil and Strabo make a clear distinction between the site of the Oracle (the Antrum at Cumae) and the Aornos cave, where Aeneas and the Sibyl – and no doubt others – entered the Underworld. Aornos is known to be elsewhere, but not too distant, near a lake. With the Antrum located in 1932, in the 1950s, two colleagues working for the NATO base in Naples, Robert Paget and Keith Jones, began searching for the Aornos cave. They began their search near Cumae, then Lake Avernus. They discovered dozens of man-made, enhanced or natural caves, but none fitted the description. They finally ended up in Baia, where Paget lived, where the director of excavations of the Roman Baths told them that there was a tunnel under one of the temples that no-one had yet explored. The archaeologists believed that the passage was unsafe, emanating poisonous fumes that did not allow further investigation.
Paget went boldly where few – and none in the last 2000 years – had gone before. What he found, was spectacular: he found another antrum, labelled the Antrum of Initiation, or the Great Antrum, which is a complex of artificial tunnels excavated into the volcanic rock. The Roman Baths are notorious for a famous dome, which is larger than the Roman Pantheon. But on the other side of the complex, high upon the steep hill, which sits on the coastline of the Bay of Naples and some miles southeast of Cumae, a small, virtually impossible to see narrow tunnel leads into one of the most archaeological sites on this planet.
Since its rediscovery in the early 1960s, the Antrum of Initiation has remained closed to the public. Only in recent years has the author Robert Temple been allowed access to it, though the Antrum still does not feature on any of the explanatory panels on the site. Furthermore, scientific controversy continues to surround the site, with some archaeologists arguing that it was only used as a mechanism through which to bring hot air towards the pools – a theory that completely disintegrates when one reads Paget’s excavation report, reads Temple’s account or watches the documentary that he filmed there.
Volcana Solfatara
The Antrum's entrance is a descending tunnel slightly more than half a metre wide and what Paget describes as “walking height”, although the original height was 2.5 metres. This tunnel begins in a complex of temples and ancillary structures and thus bears some resemblance to the underground chamber of the Pythia in Delphi, which also sat underneath a temple. The entrance tunnel continues on an orientation of 270° from north for almost 125 metres and is aligned to solar phenomena. There are niches for lamps cut into the walls on alternate sides every 2.5 metres. At the end of the entrance tunnel there is a fork with a pivoting door, which allowed the visitor to make a circuit, seemingly entering one way, but leaving through a different “Gate”. Paget named the branching point of the tunnel “The Dividing of the Ways”. The left passage continues on the same orientation as the entrance tunnel. The right passage has an orientation of 290° and becomes stairs leading down. After 46 metres, the tunnel reorients to 300° and is flooded with water, which Paget interpreted as a representation of the River Styx. This flooding did not present a problem for Paget, who continued further.
From the edge of the water in the right hand fork, as well as the underwater route, there is another opening to a passage that rises sharply, to end in a chamber. From this chamber, there is another descending passage which led to the opposite side of the flooded passage. The flooded passage was found to be fed by a pair of springs. How the people that build this complex – when and whom remains unknown – knew that there was a river about two hundred metres deep in the cliff-side will probably never be known.
The left-hand branch at the Parting of the Ways divides into two passages which run parallel to each other but at different levels, to also meet at this central chamber. It is here that Paget believed that there was another oracular centre, where the visitors were granted an encounter with the Sibyl or another priestess; the chamber represented the Palace of the King and Queen of the Underworld, Hades and Persephone.
Robert Paget and Robert Temple are convinced that the Antrum at Baia is the Aornos into which the Sibyl led Aeneas. I am not totally convinced. The Antrum is not on the side of a lake, as it says in Virgil’s account; instead, it sits right at the edge of the sea. Though the Antrum is – without any doubt – extremely important, whether it is indeed the Aornos remains a question mark. It was definitely a representation of the Underworld, it definitely shows several parallels with Aeneas’ voyage in the Underworld and it is clearly a “typical” representation of the voyage in the Underworld. But it is equally possible that the Phlegrean Fields, famous for being Hell on Earth and an entrance into the Underworld, may have had more than one oracle of the dead; Baia could be Aornos, but it is possible that somewhere, the “real” Aornos remains yet to be discovered. If the Sibyl was still alive, we could seek her advice and listen to her prophecies whether or not we are right or wrong, and what else this area will reveal to us in the future.


But we were going to see the oldest part – which was Greek, and dated back to about 800 BC. They came from here:


Ischia.
 It’s Ischia. Which is where the Greeks first established a trading colony. Which they used as a base for establishing Cumae a short time later.Here’s Ischia again – from on top of the Cumae settlement:

And here are some other images from the upper part of the settlement, which was first a Greek temple (to Apollo?), then a Roman temple to Zeus, then an early Christian basilica:

The larger blocks at the bottom of the structure are typical of Greek building techniques.







During the Christian era, graves for the clergy were dug within the basilica. Here are some images showing those:

Tight fit.


See?
* * * * * * *
Below the temples at Cumae was something quite special: the Cumaean Sibyl. Special because of the role that this Sibyl played in the early legends of Rome. The Sibyl was later employed by the Christians as having been a prophet of the birth of Christ. (And you thought that retconning was a modern idea…)
Here’s where the Cumaean Sibyl was supposed to have resided:



Looking in …


… and looking out.

* * * * * * *
As noted, the entire Roman settlement at Cumae was quite substantial. As we descended from the hill where the temples were, then past the Sibyl’s Cave, we came to the lower settlement area which contained plenty of evidence of a full set of Roman baths as well as a Forum and other structures. Here’s an overview of that area from the hill:



And here are some images from down among the ruins:



Note the terracotta pipes, used to draw steam through the walls and heat a sauna.

And here’s another shot of the coloseum, after we got back to the villa, to tie it all together.


* * * * * * *
Cumae is important for one other reason, which I didn’t know until I started doing some research for writing this, and which has a very direct connection to my writing this.
Specifically, Cumae is the home of the Cumaean Alphabet. Which was a form of Greek used by those early colonists. It was adopted by the Etruscans, then by the Romans, and is the source of what we know now as the Latin Alphabet. Which became the alphabet we use today.

Punta Campanella

 
Punta Campanella
On the most extreme point of the Sorrentine Peninsula, where Ulysses succumbed to the song of the Sirens and the ancient Romans worshipped the goddess, Minerva.
At the point where the Monti Latteri start to slope down towards the sea, Punta Campanella links the Sorrentine Peninsula with the Amalfi Coast. A land of myths and legends, this narrow strip of land stretches out to sea as if wishing to be reunited with the nearby island of Capri, from which it was separated many thousands of years ago.

Sunday, September 22, 2013

Museo Archeologico Virtuale (MAV)

 Museo Archeologico Virtuale (MAV)
Dazzling "virtual" versions of Herculaneum's streets and squares, computerized re-creations of the House of the Faun, even a multi-D simulation of Vesuvius erupting: Herculaneum's 1st-century-meets-the-21st-century museum extravaganza has it all. After stopping at the ticket office for the headset audio tour (€3), you descend, as in an excavation, to a floor below. Passing ancient faces that have now been given a name, the "percorso" path inserts you inside a re-creation of Herculaneum's first dig, replete with voices echoing from large terra-cotta vases.

You'll experience Herculaneum's Villa dei Papiri before and—even more dramatically—during the eruption, courtesy of special effects; enter "the burning cloud" of 79 AD (actually vaporized water); then emerge, virtually speaking, inside Pompeii's House of the Faun, which can be seen both as it is and (depending on a mere movement of your feet) as it was for two centuries BC. The next re-creation—complete with rippling grass and moving cart and oxen—is again Villa dei Papirii. Then comes a stellar pre- and post-flooding view of Baia's "Nymphaeum," the now-displaced statues arrayed as they were in the days of Emperor Claudius who commissioned them. Another screen displays Villa Jovis, Tiberius's residence on Capri.
Visitors here are also invited to take a front-row seat for "Day and Night in the Forum of Pompeii," with soldiers, litter-bearing slaves, and toga-clad figures moving spectrally to complete the spell; or to make a vicarious visit to the "Lupari" brothels, their various pleasures illustrated in virtual and graphic frescoes along the walls. There are holograms of jewelry of the earthquake fugitives and a touch-and-browse section of the Papyrii's 1,800 scrolls, too. Recent installations add reconstructions of Herculaneum's theater and baths, and Pompeii's gladiator school. The most spectacular of all, though, is a vivid simulation of the eruption of Vesuvius, with even the floor vibrating to give you an as-close-to-real-as-possible feel for what happened that fateful day. "Wisdom begins in wonder," said Socrates and this museum does a great job in proving the ancient philosopher correct.

Address: Via IV Novembre 44, Ercolano, 80056 | Map It
Phone: 081/19806511
Cost: €11.50 (€7.50 museum only, €5 eruption simulation only)
Hours: Tues.--Fri. 9:30--5, weekends 9:30--5
Website: www.museomav.it
Location: Herculaneum

Visting Pompeii and Herculaneum

Visting Pompeii and Herculaneum
Ask the experts: Anne Hanley, our Italy expert, suggests the best travel options for visiting Pompeii, Herculaneum and other attractions in the Naples area. 

You might want to allow a whole day in Pompeii, and make a separate trip to Herculaneum Photo: Alamy--P J Hereford, Herefordshire, writes
I have been reading Mary Beard’s excellent piece in The Daily Telegraph about Pompeii and Herculaneum and have decided to take our daughter for a trip both to mark her 30th birthday and her safe return from a second tour of duty as an intensive care nurse at Camp Bastion, Afghanistan.
The Circumvesuviana suburban railway makes travel from Sorrento to the archaeological sites extremely simple. It’s just under half an hour to Pompeii and another 17 minutes on from there to Herculaneum. Visiting them both in one day would be quite a marathon, so if you want to make the most of it, you might want to allow a whole day in Pompeii, and make a separate trip to Herculaneum.Tickets to individual sites cost €11 (£9.50), but the combined ticket covering five sites in the area is valid for three consecutive days and costs €20 (£17). Unless you buy an ArteCard (below), you cannot book your tickets, and they must be paid for in cash at the gate.
 If you want to visit more attractions in the Naples area, the €27 (£23) three-day Campania ArteCard (buy online at campaniartecard.it) gives free entrance to two places (including Pompeii and Herculaneum), a 50 per cent discount on all others and unlimited use of public transport (though it can only be picked up at Pompeii and Herculaneum, or Naples, so you will have to pay one leg on the train to get there). A single from Sorrento to Pompeii or Herculaneum costs €2.10 (£1.80). 
Ancient Italy: alternatives to Pompeii
The British Museum’s current exhibition can only increase the crowds at Pompeii. So now’s the time to visit the other 'Vesuvian’ sites, says Mary Beard. 

The modern town of Ercolano, built on top of Herculaneum Photo: Alamy
The buried city of Pompeii always grabs the headlines — and the tourist hordes. But it wasn’t the only place overwhelmed by the eruption of Vesuvius in AD 79. That is something worth remembering if, inspired by the new exhibition at the British Museum, you are thinking of travelling out to see the ruins. Those who long to enjoy a glimpse of Ancient Roman life in relative peace and quiet, and without the jostling of fellow visitors, should plan a visit to one of the less well-known “Vesuvian sites”. None is quite as extensive as Pompeii itself, but they spring some memorable surprises and are not too difficult to reach by public transport. If you’re lucky, you may have one or two of these places almost to yourself.
View our interactive graphic of Pompeii's sites
Pompeii’s “little sister”, the town of Herculaneum (just 10 miles to the north, nearer Naples), almost beats Pompeii for the completeness of its preservation, though it attracts fewer tourists. True, much less of the place has been uncovered — partly because the modern town of Ercolano is built on top of it, partly because it was covered by yards of rock-solid volcanic debris, which makes it tough to excavate. In fact the modern site reveals just one corner of the little town. But there’s an advantage in that rock-hard covering: it preserved all kinds of unexpected things that the shallower and looser ash that fell on Pompeii did not.Most striking of all are the wooden fixtures and fittings. The houses in Pompeii can look disconcertingly bare and “open plan”, thanks in part to the loss of almost all the wood. Herculaneum gives us a rather different view. In one house you can still see a wonderful wooden screen that gave privacy to one of the rooms off the main hall (or atrium).

A statue at Herculaneum, Pompeii’s 'little sister’
There are also traces of wooden stairways and balconies, and of wooden furniture — from cupboards and couches, right down to a baby’s cradle. (This furniture is not usually on public display on the site itself but some key pieces feature in the British Museum exhibition.)
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Other extraordinary survivals are the papyrus rolls. Just outside Herculaneum itself is a large and lavish residence, the so-called Villa of the Papyri. This has hardly been excavated in the normal sense of the word at all, but intrepid diggers in the 18th century tunnelled down to it, in narrow shafts through the 65ft or so of solid covering. Somehow they managed to bring back up not only more than 80, mostly bronze, sculptures (currently occupying a whole room of the Naples Archaeological Museum), but also the remains of a large library of papyrus rolls — only now being successfully unrolled and deciphered. Sadly, perhaps, for those hoping for the lost works of great classical literature, almost all the books so far have turned out to be the work of a single, frankly rather second-rate, Greek philosopher called Philodemus.
Archaeologists have argued for decades about the differing characters of Herculaneum and Pompeii. Even if it were fully excavated, Herculaneum would certainly be much smaller than its neighbour, not much more than what we would call a large village. And many people think that it was also rather sleepier and rather plusher (think Bourton-on-the-Water, perhaps) than the bustling, commercial and probably more politicised Pompeii next door. The painted election slogans, for example, that are such a feature of that town are simply not found at Herculaneum.
But it is absolutely certain that neither of these places was as upmarket as many of the lavish country residences round about them. The Bay of Naples was the holiday paradise of the metropolitan Roman elite. It was their Riviera — where they built their sometimes over-the-top holiday homes.
Naples
The biggest and most spectacular of these is a “villa” the size of a palace just outside Pompeii, at a place called Oplontis. In fact, it is sometimes believed to have had links with the Roman imperial family itself, as one of the properties of the emperor Nero’s wife Poppaea. That’s a rather doubtful claim, but — Poppaea or not — this is about as grand a residence as Roman money could buy. The paintings on its walls, in elaborate 3D trompe l’oeil, are the most astounding we have from anywhere in the Roman world and leave most of what you can see at Pompeii and Herculaneum looking, frankly, a little cheap. To cap it all, in the back garden there is an Olympic-sized swimming pool.
Even in the height of summer, few visitors make it to Oplontis. Even fewer get to the almost as extravagant Roman residences a few miles away at Stabiae, sited to capture what must have been in ancient times the most wonderful sea views (no longer — as the coast line has changed).
Some of the finds from the excavations of the Stabiae villas are among the highlights of the collection of the Naples Archaeological Museum, including the famous painting of “Primavera” gathering flowers and some exquisite obsidian cups. These alone (plus the sculptures from the Villa of the Papyri) make a visit to that rather “unreconstructed” museum worthwhile.
But in some ways the cases and cases of Roman bric à brac are just as impressive — the lamps (often decidedly phallic in shape), the hundreds of little bronze statuettes, the pots and pans, the carpenters’ tools, even the musical instruments. There is so much of the stuff that it can be hard to take in (and many visitors do walk briskly by), but it gives the best idea we have of the kind of clutter that must have littered real Roman homes, and it’s a nice reminder that in terms of domestic mess, the ancients were not much different from ourselves.
 Mary Beard is professor of classics at the University of Cambridge and the author of Pompeii: The Life of a Roman Town (Profile, £9.99), which won a Wolfson History Prize.
Six essential sights
The House of the Wooden Screen, Herculaneum
Walk into the main hall and see the classic arrangement of water basin in the floor in the middle (to catch the rain coming in through the opening in the roof). The wooden screen across the back of the hall gives an idea of how much more private and snug these houses might have been than they seem at first sight.
The House of the Black Salon, Herculaneum
As its modern name suggests, this large house shows the variety of interior decoration in the Roman world (not all “Pompeian red”). Here we find elegant decoration in black, white and brown.
The House of Neptune and Amphitrite, Herculaneum
At the front of this house is a typical Roman shop, with areas for sales, storage and (compact) family living. Heavily restored, it gives a good idea of a Roman shopkeeper’s world.
Mosaic of Neptune and Amphitrite
The garden at Oplontis
As well as the extraordinary painting in the reception rooms, don’t miss the illusionistic internal garden – a series of small open courtyards, with their walls cleverly decorated to match the plants that would have grown there.
The slave areas at Oplontis
Look for the service corridors and slave areas – a sign you have reached them is the wall decoration: not the expensive painting of the public areas, but diagonal black and white stripes (“zebra stripe”).
National Archaeological Museum at Naples
Among the assorted bronzeware, seek out the cooking equipment: pans and moulds and egg poachers that would not look out of place in a kitchen today. There is some ancient gynaecologists’ equipment too.
Essentials
 Life and death in Pompeii and Herculaneum continues at the British Museum (britishmuseum.org) until September 29, admission £15. Mary Beard is one of the presenters showing viewers around the exhibition in Pompeii Live, a live broadcast that will be screened in cinemas around the country on June 18 (more details on the museum website).
Local practicalities
The easiest way to get to most of these sites is on the Circumvesuviana railway, which runs from Naples around Vesuvius and to Sorrento. This takes you within easy walking distance of Herculaneum (Ercolano station) and Oplontis (Torre Annunziata).
Reaching Stabiae is not quite so straightforward. From the Via Nocera station on the Circumvesuviana, you are faced with a hefty walk or a bus journey (through the not very tourist-friendly town of Castellammare di Stabia).
If you are planning to visit Pompeii and Herculaneum and at least one other site in the region, buy the combined ticket — which gives a substantial discount on the individual entry price.
The Naples Archaeological Museum has an excellent bookshop, but otherwise limited facilities. Don’t expect to get more than a basic drink and snack there. A walk of five to 10 minutes down the Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli will bring you to some decent restaurants that are not simply tourist traps.
For Mary Beard’s detailed guide to planning a visit to Pompeii, see telegraph.co.uk/marybeardspompeii.
Mary Beard's Pompeii guide: a trip back to AD 79
Mary Beard, the broadcaster and classicist, offers an expert guide to visiting the Roman ruins of Pompeii.

'Pompeii is the only place in the world where you can begin to understand how the Romans of the first century AD lived' Photo: AP
By Mary Beard -11:00AM GMT 07 Feb 2013
Pompeii is unforgettable. It is the only place in the world where you can begin to understand, face to face, how the Romans of the first century AD lived: from the brothels and lavatories to the posh dining rooms and lavish bathing establishments (the modern spa, health club and gym rolled into one).
I have been studying the place for more than 30 years and the magic works every time. I slip down a deserted side street (and the site is big enough that there still are deserted side streets), and without having to use much imagination I have travelled back 2,000 years – walking along the high pavements, hopping across the road on the stepping stones, peering at the ruts made by generations of Roman carts, or at the election slogans painted on the walls by hopeful Roman candidates for office.

Not that Pompeii is a city "frozen in time". The eruption of Vesuvius that destroyed the town in AD 79 wasn't quite as devastating as it is sometimes cracked up to be. This wasn't an ordinary little town going about its everyday business as usual – when suddenly, with no warning at all, it was covered in debris from the volcano and preserved as if in aspic. Vesuvius had been rumbling for days, if not weeks.
Most of the population, perhaps more than 17,000 out of an original 20,000 or so, managed to escape – taking their prized possessions with them. If Pompeian houses today look under-furnished, that's partly because the owners had loaded their best furniture on a cart and scarpered.
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They weren't all so lucky. The old, the ill and the hopelessly optimistic (or stupid) seem to have sat it out – and died. The skeletons of one family have been found, crouched together in a back room of a large house. One of the group was in her late teens and almost nine months pregnant. That presumably explains why they stayed put. Others may simply have decided to get on with their jobs and ignore the warnings.
One team of painters was working on some expensive new wall decoration in another large property until the very last minute. They certainly left in a hurry, knocking over their ladder and bucket of cement in the process – to be found by archaeologists almost two millennia later. They may have been very lucky in their escape and got away.
More likely they have ended up as some of the dead "bodies" you can still see on the site, crouching in corners, head in hands, or clinging to each other as the debris fell – the shape of their clothing, even their facial expressions as they died, preserved.
These are now some of the biggest attractions of the ancient town: vivid, if ghoulish, reminders of the real people who lost their lives in the disastrous eruption. They are not literally "bodies" at all, of course. One ingenious 19th-century excavator had the bright idea of pouring plaster of Paris into the cavities left in the lava around skeletons, where flesh and clothing had decomposed – and, hey presto, the shape of a living human being was miraculously recovered.
Modern science has developed these techniques. We have recently discovered that you can pour plaster not only into the cavities left by corpses but into those left by the roots of plants as they decomposed under the volcanic debris. And so whole gardens have been reconstructed with their flowers, fruit trees and cuttings in pots. Microscopic analysis can tell you even more – about the pollen flying around in the air in AD 79 or occasionally, when you find a cesspit, about what went through the digestive tracts of the ancient inhabitants of the town.
Eggs, we have learnt, were among the staples of the Pompeian diet – and there were some nasty intestinal parasites around.
But the pleasure of Pompeii is that you don't actually need a microscope to make discoveries. You just need your eyes open. The fittings of lost doors and windows are there for all to see if they look hard enough. So too are the stairways in the private houses that led to upper storeys destroyed in the eruption (despite first appearances, the Pompeians did not live in bungalows – but what went on upstairs is hard to say).
One of the most curious new discoveries has come from a closer look at those cart ruts that scar the Pompeian streets.
Generations of visitors have wondered how two ancient carts could possibly have passed each other in the narrow streets of the town. The answer now seems to be that they didn't. Carefully examining the scrapes of cartwheels in the roadway and against the pavements, one team of archaeologists has worked out the direction of the traffic flow and claims to be able to plot the one-way street system operating in ancient Pompeii.
How to make the best of your visit
A visit to Pompeii hardly ever lets you down. But to have a really successful time there are two essentials apart from wide-open eyes: sensible shoes (the bumpy roads and pavements are hard on the ankles) and a water bottle (a small one is fine: there are lots of ancient street fountains where you can refill).

It is also a good idea to do a bit of planning. If you put yourself at the mercy of one of the guides who tout for business at the entrance, you will miss out on the fun of wandering as you please. It's far better to work out an agenda in advance and find your way around with a map.
There are two basic rules here. First, don't get too interested too early. Most people arrive by the little Circumvesuviana railway from Naples or Sorrento, and go in by the main entrance at the Porta Marina (the sea gate). From here you quickly come to the Forum, or the main piazza of the ancient town.
It's impressive enough in its way, and many new visitors spend ages there trying to work out what every building was. Don't. There are even more impressive things to come – brilliantly preserved bath buildings, a working-condition brothel and an amphitheatre, for example.
Second, take any opportunity offered. A lot of the best private houses of the town are locked for much of the time. But custodians do open them occasionally. If you spot an open door – go through it. All kinds of surprises might lie inside: little mosaic fountains, reconstructed gardens, the carefully crafted marble couches on which upmarket Romans dined.
Six essential sights
1. The House of the Tragic Poet (it has nothing actually to do with a tragic poet, but most houses got nicknames in the 19th century).
This is among the best-preserved private houses and features the famous "Beware of the Dog" mosaic at its entrance – and it was the one that Edward Bulwer-Lytton chose as the home of his hero Glaucus, in his engaging 1830s romp The Last Days of Pompeii.
2. The Temple of Isis
Bulwer-Lytton's villain in The Last Days was a priest of the Egyptian goddess Isis, and her temple is one of the most vividly preserved in the whole town. It was visited by the young Mozart in 1769, and gave him ideas for The Magic Flute.
3. The brothel
This is now the most-visited building on the site (more visited than in antiquity, no doubt) – and you may well have to queue to get in. It consists of five poky cubicles, with some explicit erotic paintings and a lot of graffiti from satisfied customers.
4. The Stabian Baths
These give you the best idea of what Roman bathing was like. There are richly decorated vaulted rooms for a good steam (the men's section considerably richer than the women's) – plus a swimming pool and exercise yard.
5. The Villa of the Mysteries
Just outside the city walls, this villa-cum-farm includes the most famous Pompeian wall-painting. A mysterious scene wrapping around the four walls of a large reception room, featuring flagellation, phalluses, a bride (?) and the god Dionysus.
6. The amphitheatre
One for the energetic (it's about as far from the entrance as it could possibly be), but worth the effort; 150 years older than the Colosseum, it's the earliest amphitheatre to survive anywhere in the world.

Mary Beard is Professor of Classics at Cambridge University. Her book Pompeii: The Life of a Roman Town (Profile, £9.99), which won a Wolfson History Prize, is currently available.
To download the Telegraph's free iBook, 'The Treasures of Pompeii and Herculaneum', visit telegraph.co.uk/Pompeii

Saturday, September 21, 2013

Baia di Ieranto

The Bay of Ieranto is one of the little uncontaminated beauties for trekking in Penisola Sorrentina (Sorrento Coast).
The name Jeranto comes from the Greek word "jerax" that means "sparrow-hawk", looking at this bay from the top it looks like an eagle with open wings.
Ieranto can be reached only by sea or walking down the path that starts from the little square of Nerano. Walking down the naturalistic footpath it is possible to admire the Mediterranean vegetation as the olive trees, lentils and the marvellous view of the Faraglioni Rocks, Capri, Punta Campanella and Galli Island.and Once arrived down to the beach, the interesting marine landscape the crystalline water deserves an immersion.
 
First off this had to be one of the most amazing places we went to around Sorrento.
The bay is part of a conservation area so is unspoilt, and has no roads leading to it.
Getting There:-No roads - so is only accessible by path, or from the sea - we walked to the bay after parking in Nerano, and the path is signposted to the right just after the square. The path is marked by occasional signs and paint marks along the rocks.
WARNING - there is about a 40 minute walk over uneven, steep paths and leave at least an hour to get back uphill (the path rises steeply up through around 200m). Coming back take the route through the olive grove - much easier path and less steep.
Take all you need (plenty of water etc) as there will be nowhere to buy from and no sunbeds etc and Don't make the walk back in the hottest part of the day!!
The walk - The walk to the bay is often along cliffs so has amazing views over the coast and, nearing the end, over the Baia di Ieranto. There is a watch tower and museum at the end, as well as a conserved farmhouse and olive grove - but the highlight has to include the beach!
A small pebbled beach which was quiet when we went in July and has amazingly clear blue waters - see the photos attached. Could have spent the day here! With calm water there is another beach round the outcrop of rocks only accessible by boat or swimming!
It is a fair walk especially at hot times of the year - but if you are up for the walk the rewards are amazing and an area I guess few tourists will have visited.
Note - probably best on weekdays as suspect more locals visit on days off. Also worth getting a free map, which includes all the walks, from the local tourist office in Massa Lubrense main square.
 

Gelateria Zini, il Gelato Artigianale-Sorrento


This is the best Gelateria in Sorrento, without a doubt!
The shop is run by a family and has been in operation since 1860! The staff at the shop were very friendly indeed, especially Mama, who is 71, and her son who is very cheeky! As you pass for the first time they offer you a free sample, and thats how it starts, after that, you're hooked!
The ice cream is absolutely the best, much better than the Raki Gelateria, where the service is quite frankly poor. There are a wide range of ice creams to choose from as well as pastries and ice slushes. From experience I can recommend the dark chocolate, plain chocolate, vanilla, Nutella and cookie.
Antica Gelateria also does, we found, the best tasting Coffee in Sorrento at a fair price.
A small but very appreciative point the staff made was to remember what we liked, as we visited many times throughout our stay. Each night the staff would remember that we like a coke light with our ice creams as well as 4 cafe late's.
Great Ice Cream and lovely staff. What more could you want?
Via Fuoro, 27, 80067 Sorrento, Italy Via Fuoro, 27, Sorrento NA, Italy