Monday, September 30, 2013

Museum and Crypt of Capuchins

Via Vittorio Veneto 27 | Chiesa dell'Immacolata Concezione della Beata Vergine Maria, 00187 Rome, Italy We stumbled upon this hidden gem on our last day in Rome, and we were very glad we did! Be warned that shoulders must be covered and shorts must be around Bermuda length. Mine were a bit too short at first, but after unrolling the cuff and adding an inch or so I was told I was good too go. If you aren't covered properly they will let you borrow a shawl or long button up shirt to cover with.
The self guided tour begins by winding through a museum that tells about the dress of the Capuchin order and chronicles the lives and histories of the friars. I can definitely see how some people would find it a bit dull, but as I had a mild interest in the topic I thought it was compelling and well done. The finale of the tour is a walk through the crypt. Though small, it is very riveting. There are six or so rooms off of the hall that you walk down filled with skeletons of friars arranged in very artsy tableaus. Even the chandeliers and decor on the ceiling and walls are made of bones- very eerie in a beautiful way. The music that they play really adds to the atmosphere too. What ruined it a bit was a group of rambuncious kids yapping away loudly who had to be reprimanded by the staff, but they soon calmed down. I wish I had been allowed to photograph it, but they do sell postcards in the gift shop for just 1 Euro each.

If you have an interest in the subject, this is definitely worth your time and money. Even if you didn't really have prior interest, you will probably still find the crypt truly unique. The Museum and Crypt of Capuchins was in several guidebooks we consulted for engaging older children/ teenagers in Rome. The Museum is located on via Veneto, just north of the Piazza Barberini, on the right side of the street. You walk up a double set of stairs. Hours are daily 9 AM to 7 PM. Shoulders and knees must be covered when you enter. The Tripadvisor city app does not accurately take you to the museum; it is actually 100 yards south of where it tells you to go.
Those unfamiliar with the Capuchin order may recognize the robes of St. Francis as its popular representation. The order values above all the Christian principles of service (especially to the needy and poor) and humility. The museum, though small, is an excellent education to the order, showing some of the history and artifacts. These include fascinating objects like the hair shirts and self-flagellation devices used by the priests to remind them of the suffering of Christ, as well as diaries, and toys (like dolls) made to resemble Christ to distribute to children. Some of these artifacts are several centuries old. Although the entrance fee of 6 Euros may seem higher than other popular tourist attractions, I guess I feel it to be worthwhile, knowing that the money will go toward projects that benefit the charities supported by the order. I know that the Jesuits and Cappuchins are doing some of the most important charity work throughout the developing world.
Finally, the crypts are several rooms (six, I think) decorated with the bones of thousands of monks. One walks through them sequentially. Presumably consent was given to use the deceased's bones (the friars died between 1528 and 1870). The bones are used to create decorative patterns: crosses are made from femurs, lighting fixtures from scapulae, flowers from iliac crests. Several monks lie resting on sarcophagi in repose, their skin mummified, not alive but not quite decomposed. There are chandeliers above the visitor's heads made from ribs and skulls. These are more fanciful and artistic depictions than the catacombs of Paris, for instance. But in this way, it also feels more morbid. Photography is not allowed, but there are postcards for sale in the little gift shop.
Please be respectful to the life and work of these priests by using a quiet voice when visiting, and refraining from photography.

1 comment:

  1. You have stumbled and found your way to this hidden crypt. Here you will find mysterious and fascinating content to enjoy. Watch out for that thing in the dark, it may just bite! So, you are feeling brave enough to hang around for a while huh? Well then, time to check out some oddities along the way. Enjoy your stay, grab some coffee and prop up those feet, things might just get weird, after reading this stuff.
    crimes

    ReplyDelete